Ah, Paris. One of my favourites cities in the world... So how cruel that I must look at all the shows online, sitting in my room in rainy Britain. Le sigh, c'est la vie! Here is the third and final instalment of the SS15 Menswear Collections; they started in London, moved to Milan, then finished up in Paris. The latter were my favourites, I'm not totally sure which was my number one yet but I plan on doing a summary post to analyse the top trends seen, watch this space! On with the show(s)...
3.1 Phillip Lim
Its always nice to start with a bit of 3.1 Phillip Lim. This is a good mix of contemporary tartan ('cos thats a thing now), the geometric trend, and metallics! I especially like the gently clashing prints on the second look.
Ami
OH MY GOD I love boyfriend jeans so much, and I love them even more when the BOYFRIEND wears them. The second look is how I aspire to appear 24/7 for the rest of my life, and the first one comes close. I love the styling in particular because it makes so much difference to how you see a collection. Give me French stripes any day.
Ann Demeulemeester
I appreciate the detailing and craftsmanship that has gone into this but I wish the black coat showed a little more on the photo, because when you look closely you can really see the attention to detail. I also love the silky, luxe fabrics used.
Berluti
I really like this! Its a little bit Tarzan chic (the British explorers, not the gorillas) and its quite classic and formal without being stuffy. The suede blazer looks sooo incredibly soft as well, but its the olive green leather coat thats really drawing my eye - I prefer this to the one at Prada
Carven
At first I was a little underwhelmed by this collection but actually its quite current. Its got that minimalist J.Crew/Swedish thing going on (even though yes, it IS a French label) which is really nice in the spring/summer period. I like the colour-blocking and how clean it all is - when a garment is cut impeccably, its fine for it to be simple like this.
Cerruti
I have a bit of a jacket/coat fetish, I just love them so much. I could probably just wear them for the rest of my life and I'd be happy so lets just say its easy for me to like this collection. The scarf-y print shirt is a little 2012 but the leaf print jumper is really quite beautiful.
Christophe Lemaire
Not tons to say about this except for the slouchy tailoring creeping in again, and I like the boiler suit effect of the first look.
Comme des Garcons Homme Plus
LOVE the styling, love the eclectic prints, love the crazy shoes... THIS is fashion as art!
Damir Doma
This is really wearable, the monochrome leopard print is great as well as the drapey cut poncho. It's sort of like a Zara/Cos crossover to me (coming from my high-street background).
Dior Homme
Dior Homme always pleasantly surprises me. This reminds me a little of the Celine painterly prints, for example what Cate Blanchett wore on the cover of US Vogue in January. The written-over denim and blazer is a little tacky together but as separates would work really well.
Dries Van Noten
Slouchy tailoring again and those Earthy tones but not a whole lot else to say apart from that. I do like the French revolution-esque styling of the second look.
Givenchy
I can't totally tell if these prints are dark florals or not but its definitely something I would associate with Givenchy. The X top is great as well, its simplistic but really not something you see everywhere.
Haider Ackermann
I love this, its kind of hipster-y and gypsyish, the guy with the ombre is wearing the most excellent silk blazer as well. The silky trousers are great too, yet more loose tailoring except this time its combined with fitted tailoring to create a more wearable look.
Hermรจs
The shirt in the second look reminds me of Celine's painterly prints again, just in more muted colours. Other than that the clothes are nice, not strikingly original but wearable.
Issey Miyake
The sea tones are great in this, in fact with the fish print the whole collection is pretty ocean inspired! The loose trousers in the middle image work really nicely being sat a bit higher up on the waist, its quite 80's but it creates a great silhouette for guys.
Junya Watanabe Man
I nearly deleted this because I couldn't decide whether I hated it or loved it. Its quite 90's, and not in a good way, but if anything I think this is a good example of how denim CAN be too much. Take note people, and never let this happen to you.
Kenzo
"Give me a Les Mis reference and I'm on board" - paraphrasing Stanley Tucci in The Devil Wears Prada, but seriously now, this is a really lovely collection. I adore the slashed stripes, its such an interesting way to do a tried and tested pattern.
Lanvin
Its Lanvin, its gonna be good. Lovely silky materials, beautiful styling, great tailoring and a very chic look for a man altogether. Vogue is always taking about 'the Celine woman' and whatnot, well if this collection is anything to go by then I would like to be 'the Lanvin man'.
Louis Vuitton
Again with the X print top, really simple but original and unexpected. The jumpsuit is cool but not necessarily wearable, the embellishment is great however. The suede Hermes-orange trench is to DIE for - literally. I would die for it.
Maison Martin Margiela
The green emerald suit is so beautiful! I can't even get over the silky jewel tones, such a stunning take on a sartorial classic. I'm also really liking this trend for wearing blazers and trousers without a shirt, it looks amazing on women but it would be harder to translate to men (despite these models making it look so easy!)
Miharayasuhiro
The falling petal pattern on the white knitwear is so beautiful! Its almost like a delicate version of leopard print, reinvented in the most stylish way possible. The tie dye sweatshirt is great as well, as is the textured forest green suit. I may not be able to pronounce Miharayasuhiro, but its a name I'll be remembering.
Paul Smith
The metallic shine on the silky materials is lovely and it offsets the ombre shirts beautifully. I like the second look and how its kind of the opposite of the gradual, bleeding colours of the ombre. It looks so sharp and graphic when juxtaposed against the faded colours.
Raf Simons
I like the idea of having the structured, simple clothing shapes paired with the painter-like prints, its a lovely pairing that shows off the detail really well. Also, great coats.
Rick Owens
Again the painter-like prints on the structured simple shapes. I really like the boots as well, they're kind of like the UGG boots stylish older brother. Maybe this will finally kill the UGG's forever.
Saint Laurent
Probably my favourite show from Paris, Saint Laurent just always gets it SO right. Hedi Slimane is a genius, I'm pretty sure he is single-handedly responsible for this tailored hipster style. He has clearly taken note of the dark florals, again theres the iconic Saint Laurent biker jacket and I particularly like the Western edge this is taking.
Thom Browne
I just had to include this. Maybe he watched The Wizard of Oz right before he set down to start sketching and just decided to base the whole thing on the Tin Man? Its fun and its arty, maybe not so wearable though (those shoulder pads could take an eye out).
Valentino
Not a single bad thing to say about this. Jewel tones and camel tones done flawlessly. The first suit in particular is a personal favourite.
Walter Van Beirendonck
I've loved this designer since his fantasy suit that Kurt wore on Glee in season four, and it just gets better! I love the taffeta prince charming thing going on, looks like fairy tales are seeping into the mens collections as well.
Wooyoungmi
Funnily enough I saw a Cos sweater exactly like the one on the second left in the sale, unfortunately its all sold out in my size. I have a feeling this one will be considerably more expensive. Other than that little side note, the metallic gold blazer is great. I love the first look (again with the silky fabrics) and the graphic blue jumper is on my wish list for sure.
Yohji Yamamoto
How excellent is this!! The styling reminds me of John Galliano but the wraparound cloaks are very Lawrence of Arabia. Loose tailoring again, its a definite trend people.
So thats it, the last of the mens collections SS15! Now onto the Couture Shows, which I'll be running down soon. So what did you think of the shows, did any jump out at you in particular?
xoxo Toramarra
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